‘Control your hand, your tongue and your loins.’ Hacı Bektaşi Veli
This article is about the biggest religious community you have never heard of and that is the Alevis. I have always been fascinated by the Alevi tradition and only once I have had the chance of visiting a Cem Evi in İstanbul which is their ‘sacred place’ for get togethers and rituals encompassing dance and music with no segregation between the sexes. The main reason I love Alevism is that it is so unorthodox allowing men and women to interact and pray through music and dance and even elements of drama. Historians say that Alevi tradition also draws inspiration from the nomadic roots of Turks before Islam which can be seen in the multi-layered clothing they wear during rituals and the circles they form when they are praying.
Dancing ritual of Alevis
It is estimated that one fourth of the Turkish population is made of Alevis but most Alevis still live and practise in disguise. due to a long history of persecutions in Anatolia ruled by sunni Muslim Sultans and governments. Pir Sultan Abdal, a 16th century Alevi poet who was executed by the authorities has a very famous poem saying ‘Let the spinners spin, I will not turn from my faith.’ Fazıl Say composed this famous poem loved by the masses. Let’s lend an ear to the rebellious stance of a 16th century Alevi poet sung beautifully by Serenad Bağcan.
I have recently discovered another song popular among Alevis dealing with the demise of Pir Sultan Abdal as he proceeds to his execution. The lyrics are about the ‘deeds by the bloody tyrant’ that led to the execution of Pir Sultan Abdal.
All Alevi friends I have are one of the nicest people I know. They are hospitable and humanistic with no sense of prejudice towards different groups, sects or religions which is so rare to find in a city like Istanbul where most people are driven either by fear or anger towards different groups.
The interior of a Cem Evi in İstanbul. Note that there are paintings on the walls which is something unheard of in Orthodox Islam. You can see the painting of Prophet Ali who is the son in law of Prophet Muhammed. He is the founder of the Alevism.
There are 64 ‘Cem Evi’s across İstanbul. If you visit İstanbul, try to visit a Cem Evi during a ‘cem’ ceremony to see a completely different faith encompassing the equality between the sexes as well as the unifying power of music and dance!
Karacaahmet Cem Evi – note that it looks nothing like a mosque which is where the Sunni Muslims pray
Here is an old but still very relevant short film on the Alevi tradition filmed in Istanbul! You will be amazed to see an unconventional faith you have never heard of.
