View of Istanbul from the Dutch Embassy at Pera, Jean Baptiste Vanmour, c. 1720 – c. 1737
Istanbul is a city of palaces of European countries such as that of France, Holland and Italy. One would wonder why a city like Istanbul encompasses the palaces of European countries. Diplomatic and commercial relations between European nations and the Ottoman Empire throughout the centuries led many European countries to build huge palaces in Istanbul which were used as embassies. After the embassies moved to the capital city Ankara in 1923 right after the establishment of the Turkish Republic, foreign countries preserved their palaces in Istanbul as residences for their ambassadors.
Today, Istanbul has three beautiful foreign palaces. First is the French Palace in Tom Tom, Beyoglu. The ‘ordinary’ people are able to visit the palace only once a year during the EU day but the garden is open to the concerts of Istanbul Cultural and Arts Foundation a couple of days each year. If you are lucky enough to find tickets to the concerts in the garden of the French Palace, you get a chance to see the glory of this 19th century French Palace. It has huge garden, just the perfect spot for classical and jazz concerts in summer. Being able to get into the short list during the EU day to visit the palace is a challenge but those who can are the few lucky people who are able to see inside this hidden gem.
French Palace Exterior
French Palace – a reception during the holy month of Ramadan
Inside the French Palace
French and Turkish diplomatic relations go back as old as 1536. France was the first foreign nation allowed to build a Consulate in Istanbul but unfortunately the first Consulate Building was burnt down. The French composer Jean-Baptiste Lully had a ceremony march composed for Turks in the 17th century.
Another foreign palace that has always fascinated me is the Venetian Palace, The name refers to the city state of Venice, before Italy was unified. The palace is only open to diplomatic receptions but apart from that, ‘laymen’ in the city have no chance of visiting it and ironically there are few people who even know that it exists. The palace is a delight to watch from outside.
We know that Casanova stayed in the Venetian Palace in 1745 for three months when he was just 19 years old and he mentions his stay in his memoirs. He writes in his memoirs that “the view of this city from a league’s distance is astonishing. Nowhere else in the world is there such a beautiful spectacle” (The Complete Memoirs of Casanova. p. 114).
Venetian Palace
Venetian Palace – Interior
Casanova
The third palace is the smallest and the humblest of all. It is the Dutch Palace which is also open during the EU day for ‘laymen’ but you need to make a reservation to be on the short list. One can feel the Protestant spirit of the Dutch when inside the palace as well as the Chapel which is a part of the building. Compared to the flamboyance of the baroque French and Venetian Palaces, the Dutch Palace is humble but dignified.
Dutch Palace – Interior
When you visit Beyoglu, don’t forget to walk by these three foreign palaces which are some of the most beautiful buildings in Pera.
