I recall watching Time of the Gypsies. by Goran Bregovic years ago. I was fascinated by the colourful world of the gypsies which displayed itself in their music, dance and costumes.
İstanbul has been hosting a gypsy community for hundreds of years. We know that gypsies were a part of Constantinople when Eastern Romans were in power. But we also know that Fatih Sultan Mehmet brought a gypsy community from the Balkans to İstanbul after his conquest of the city in 1453 for the following 30 years and gave them homes in neighbourhoods such as Yenibahçe, Sulukule, Ayvansaray, Üsküdar and Kasımpaşa. Most of these neighbourhoods were on the outskirts of the city next to Byzantine city walls.
İstanbul’s historical city walls that marked the old city during the Byzantine era before Turks conquered the city in 1453.
Gypsies have always been a fabric of İstanbul culture as one can see them selling flowers on street corners all across the city, making music on the streets in the evening, teasing locals to tell their fortunes by palm reading and dancing in various occasions such as the spring’s arrival which is celebrated all across the city of İstanbul as well as the country.
A flower stand on a corner in İstanbul. The seller is almost always a Gypsy.
Gypsies (or Romans as some call them) live a very rich and collective life. They are usually very care free people with a joyful spirit easily stimulated by music. They do not care about social status, education or the matters of the intellectual. They live in their bodies and in the moment. Gypsies love and live life to its fullest.
They celebrate their happy days on the streets with music and dance. Here is a photo from a Roman wedding in Balat in which everyone in the neighbourhood is out on the street dancing and singing as a part of this celebration.
Gypsies have a strong musical tradition that one can see across the city in street corners and in venues in night life. Melih Duygulu wrote a wonderful book on the Gypsy’s musical tradition in Turkey.
Check out the Ahırkapı Roman Orchestra to understand the spirit of the gypsies.
One of the most famous of all Gypsy musicians is Hüsnü Şenlendirici. Let’s end an ear to a concert of him in İstanbul where he has been able to stretch his musical talent to another level. Although he is a popular musician, he also has become a star of festivals across the globe meeting musicians from all genres.
Gypsy neighbourhoods unfortunately have been under attack for many years due to a growing gentrification trend across the city. Many neighbourhoods which gypsies have been living for centuries have been knocked down, destroying a long tradition. In spite of all the protests, these neighbourhoods have become colourless and ordinary without the carefree spirit, joyful dances and the vibrant music of İstanbul’s gypsies!
An old photograph from 2008 in Sulukule where gypsies are celebrating a happy day! This photo is a poor nostalgia now as this community has been pushed to the outskirts of İstanbul
