‘One night we leapt the Wall of love, Where I fell was so clear so open, You and the universe at my side.’ Can Yücel
There are very few neighbourhoods that carry the echoes of old İstanbul and Kuzguncuk is one of them. İstanbul lover British journalist Andrew Finkel calls Kuzguncuk ‘too cute’. It definitely is too cute to be true for the modern world and the megapolis İstanbul has become.
If you are in İstanbul on the European side, consider hopping on a ferry to the Anatolian side to Kuzguncuk which is on the Bosphorus coastline close to Üsküdar.
Historically, a neighbourhood that hosted a large Jewish population along with Christians and Muslims, it is a home to a synagogue, a church and a mosque in walking distance to one another. Although its Jewish and Christian population has almost vanished, the beautiful houses have remained.
It is a small neighbourhood so everything is walking distance. Take some time to stroll through the cute and colourful houses which are one of the last remaining examples of old İstanbul houses.
Note that the synagogue is not open to public visits and the Church is only open for a very short period on sundays but you can see the buildings from outside.
You can see the Church bell tower and the minaret of the mosque next to one another and they both open to the infinite sky of Bosphorus
Bety Yaokov Synagogue in Kuzguncuk
Kuzguncuk city garden
Kuzguncuk is one of the few neighbourhoods that has a living and functioning city garden. People rent small gardens in which they plant and water their vegetables. You can walk through the gardens freely and if you are living in İstanbul, you can even rent one.
The neıighbourhood host a range of beautiful cafes and delicious patisseries. Try one for a sip of Turkish coffee or some Turkish tea or simply for some deserts and lots of chit chat with loved ones.
I will suggest you to visit two stores. One belongs to the unique İstanbul jewellery designer Nilgün Berber. I simply love her designs. She is also a very special person herself. She has a calmness that is unmatched in İstanbul.
A pair of earrings designed by Nilgün Berber
And definitely drop by Refika’nın Mutfağı. Refika is specialised in local cuisine and has a store in Kuzguncuk. If you are interested in culinary richness, consider following her on YouTube in which she shares the secrets of making Turkish dishes. As a person who is not into domestic matters, I am fascinated by her deep experience and enthusiasm in cooking.
Refika in her Kitchen
There is a secret gem waiting for you on top of the ferry station which has an incredible view of the Bosphorus. The upper floor is used by a NGO specialised in design named ‘Türkiye Tasarım Vakfı’ but the visit to the upper chamber is available from all walks of life so don’t be shy!
Next to the Ferry Station is a very famous fish restaurant called İsmet Baba famous with its delicious food. Definitely not for budget travellers but for those who want to savour the moment overlooking the beautiful view of the Bosphorus.
İsmet Baba Restaurant
Famous Turkish poet and translator Can Yücel was a resident of Kuzguncuk. His memory still lives in the neighbourhood. I remember the poet from my university years. He was a grumpy man but a wonderful poet.
Istanbul lover Andrew Finkel talks about Kuzguncuk and how this neighbourhood that is ‘too cute’ stole his heart!
One final note. Try visiting Kuzguncuk during a week day as the weekends are packed with locals and tourists rushing to see this neighbourhood that is too cute to be true in today’s world!
