Very similar to the rest of the cities across the globe, the Bohemian culture is dying in Istanbul due to skyrocketing prices in neighbourhoods where artists and intellectuals used to live, ‘mingle’ and produce ideas and art. Of course there are neighbourhoods for bohemians who come from wealthier backgrounds like Cihangir but for students, artists of humble backgrounds, academics of modest means and ‘marginals’ such as feminists and LGBT, there is less and less space to live and to ‘mingle’.
I think Yeldegirmeni is one of the last neighbourhoods for these ‘rough riders’ and ‘ghost poets’ as it is also becoming more and more expensive as Russians and Ukrainians who fled the war as well as Europeans who want to live in Istanbul for a short while to experience the city is pouring in because it has a western architecture and a liberal, bohemian life style.
Haydarpasa Train Station built in 1872 mainly by German architects
There are two things I like about this neighbourhood. It looks and feels European, All the buildings originally were built by European engineers and architects who were here for building the Haydarpasa Train Station in 1872 so there are traces of Italian, French and German architecture. All those who built these buildings and their children are gone but the beautiful buildings remain.
It is also one of the most liberal neighbourhoods of the city where there is tolerance towards diversity of aesthetics, sexual orientations and mannerisms. I feel thrilled to look at the diverse range of hair colours from pink to blue, wide range of tattoos people choose to wear on their bodies, wide range of people with their unique life styles and manners.
The neighbourhood is full of small and lovely cafes, small vintage and design stores and shops of artists selling ceramics.
A Vintage Store in Yeldegirmeni
Drop by KUFF Cafe for a meal which is one of my most favourite, drop by a cafe for a latte or a cup of Turkish cafe, shop from local shops of artists and designers and definitely see the Cultural Center which used to be a French Catholic Church. It has been beautifully renovated and turned into a cultural center for classical music concerts.
KUFF Cafe
Yeldegirmeni Cultural Center which used to be a French Church
Check out the concerts on Kadikoy Municipality’s website and definitely see a classical music concert before you leave the city in this beautiful church.
Check out my article on Camerata Baroque Istanbul to learn more about these talented young musicians.
It won’t be long before this neighbourhood will also be swallowed by the ‘capital’ and replaced by the ‘ordinary’ so hurry up to see it before it vanishes.
