History says that the first settlers to Istanbul were of a Greek colony (Megarians) who came to create a home in the Anatolian side which we now call Kadikoy in 685 BC. It is said that the Persian general Megabazus called them ‘blind’ for settling here and not on the other side of the Bosphorus which -to him- was more beautiful.
Legend says that the oracle of Delphi said to the Athenians and Megarians who were founders of Byzantium in 657 BC that they would settle and form a city opposite ‘the land of the blind’ which they did. They came to settle and founded the city called Byzantium on the opposite side to Kadikoy.
An old map showing Khalkedon ‘opposite’ to Byzantium
Khalkedon had been conquered by Persians, Romans and finally fell into the hands of Turks in the 14th century – a century before Constantinople was conquered by the Turks.
From the Khalkedon excavation site
Now, modern day Khalkedon: Kadikoy is a hip area with its cafes, art galleries, antique shops, bars, vintage stores, performance halls and theatre houses. It is a place for the young and young at heart who are looking for arts, culture and a good time.
You can spend a whole day visiting antique shops full of the city’s history, looking at small vintage and jewellery shops, taking a rest at its uniquely decorated cafes, dine at authentic local food restaurants, spend the evening in the bars street.
Start your journey from the post office right across from the Kadikoy ferry station. Take the road up hill. Visit the first patisseries of Istanbul: Baylan and Muhittin Haci Bekir right across from one another. Muhittin Haci Bekir was the name of the first man in our history that opened a confectionary store in 1777. He was also the ‘man’ that created the Turkish delight that was loved by the sultan and then became the famous delight associated with Turks. Baylan is a ‘modern day’ patisserie of our grandmothers and grandfathers that opened in 1919. Drop by the book store of Isbankasi Yayinlari (Isbank Publications). Although the store is small and all books are in Turkish, gaze through books of all genres from Seneca to Voltaire.
Lokum created by Muhittin Haci Bekir
Try Kup Griye – a famous desert of Baylan if you have a sweet tooth
Isbank Book Store – cats resting on books
Right across from the end of the road is a beautiful Armenian Church called Surp Takavor, drop by to light a candle, If it is a Sunday, attend the sermon and listen to the fabulous choir. Turn left to see one of the oldest Greek churches in Kadikoy. It is fully open on sundays for sunday mass. There are very few people attending the masses as there is a very small Greek minority left in Istanbul.
Remember that Khalkedon is important for the history of Christianity as the fourth ecumenical council of the Christian Church took place here in 451 AD.
Surp Takavor Armenian Church
Aya Efimia Greek Orthodox Church
If you go back to the Armenian church and keep on walking and turn left, you come across one of the best doner kebap restaurants in Kadikoy. Food is great and the prices are very reasonable.
Or you can choose to eat at Ciya – one of Kadikoy’s most favourite restaurants- that offer a range of delicious and very unique dishes from all across Anatolia. What is interesting is that even most locals are not familiar with these unique dishes. Staff is also very friendly.
Ciya restaurant
If you are interested in how a local market looks like, turn left and visit the local open air bazaar with its vegetable and fish shops, its herbal stores and patisseries. You will be bombarded with a cornucopia of sounds, tastes and aromas. You can get one of the most fresh, the most authentic and the cheapest of all food in the city. It is the closest you can get to a local bazaar atmosphere in the city which unfortunately is dying out.
The local market called the fish bazaar in Istanbul
Climb uphill from the fish market and find your way into the antique shops street full of Istanbul’s history. Antique furniture, objects, lamps from all sort of origins can be found here. You can find pieces of furniture made by an old Armenian craftsman or antique piece of china or a lamp from France. Don’t forget to bargain as it is the tradition here. There are also very few shops that sell paintings and prints by important Turkish painters like Bedri Rahmi Eyuboglu and Devrim Erbil. If you come across one, consider purchasing because they are a delight to own.
Antique shops street in Kadikoy
A look at antique porcelain at a Kadikoy’s Antique Shop
Important Turkish painter Bedri Rahmi Eyuboglu (1911-1975)
Devrim Erbil (1937 – ….)
From the end of the Antiques shop street, turn left and find your way to the Bars Street full of bars that have unique characters of their own. Visit Karga which has DJ performances and sometimes art exhibitions. It has a gothic aura and a lovely and tiny backyard garden.
Kadikoy Bars Street
Karga Bar interior
After a visit at the Bars Street. look around for the range of cafes surrounding you. Cafes with a range of unique decorations and vibrant energy will welcome you.
Two of my favourite are Mars Cafe and cafe inside the theatre hall Oyun Atolyesi called Antre Cafe.
Antre Cafe inside the Theater House: Oyun Atolyesi
One last stop in Kadikoy is the Seven Arts Gallery where you can see a range of paintings, beautifully framed mirrors as well as the exhibition hall full of contemporary Turkish painters and miniature artists.
Seven Arts Gallery
Then it is time to say ‘good bye’ to Kadikoy and say a welcome to ‘Moda’ which is the far end of the neighbourhood that stretches to the sea. It is definitely a topic of another article!
Moda coastline
