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A Song of Obsession for Istanbulites

A painting depicting old Üsküdar during the Ottoman Era when people used boats for transportation and Üsküdar had not been invaded by concrete blocks

There is one particular song everyone in Istanbul from all walks of life knows. It is a song associated with İstanbul by every İstanbulite. The name of the song is ‘Üsküdar’a Gider İken‘ which literally means ‘on the way to Üsküdar’. Note that Üsküdar is one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Istanbul.

There are infinite variations of this song by classical musicians, popular singers, jazz musicians and many more in Turkey as well as around the globe.

Jordi Savall

Musicologists say that this is in fact a multiethnic song shared by many cultures loved not only in Turkey but in the Balkans, North Africa and the Middle East. There are many different thesis with respect to the origins of this song. One is by the prominent musician Jordi Savall who claims that this is an old Sephardic song dating back to the 9th century that traveled to Istanbul after the expulsion of Jews from Spain and spread to the Balkans, Middle East and North Africa through the influence of the Ottoman sovereignty.

But all I know is regardless of the origins of this song, Istanbulites made it their own throughout centuries and sing it from the heart!

Here is a version by Jordi Savall in the first part of the following video. The song is performed in different languages from artists from different regions of this part of the world that shows its multiethnic character.

Here is a version by prominent musician Fazıl Say.

Here is a version by Andre Rieu who visits İstanbul time and again.

Here is the interpretation of the song by Boğaziçi Jazz Choir.

Let me end with a performance of ‘Üsküdara Giden İken’ on a ferry going to Üsküdar to the surprise of travellers.