Everyone culture has its flaws. I think one of our biggest flaws is our relation to our past and our inability to preserve the past as it is. Therefore renovation in Turkey almost always means renewal and that is erasing the past and remaking its replica turning it into a parody of itself. I fail to explain why this is the case to myself but I can not stop feeling a deep sense of grief whenever I see it in different corners of the city. Municipalities, architects, restorationists, construction companies act as if they are the sovereigns of the architectural heritage of İstanbul and think they can do as they please. What is worse is that they create stories around this trying to justify why this should be the case.
A tragic example of this is the restoration of Cercle d’Orient building in Beyoğlu which was named Pera all throughout history.
Cercle D’orient Building which is currently the Grand Pera
An old photo from roaring 20s in Pera where Cercle d’Orient resides. It shows the spirit of Pera which was the centre of elegance and the latest fashions of the time (photo taken from https://lancstolevant.wordpress.com/category/constantinople/)
Cercle D’orient was one of the first social clubs of old İstanbul where the leading members of the society and prominent figures of minorities were members. It resided in one of the most beautiful 19th century buildings of Pera constructed in 1883.
The architect of the building was the renowned Allexandre Vallaury
Detail from the Cercle D’orient Building
It was the heart of cultural life in old İstanbul where the elite enjoyed music, literature, sports and ballroom dancing. There was even a skating palace constructed in the garden of the Cercle D’orient building where the members skated.
Note that this was not the only skating palace in İstanbul in early 1900s. Here is an advert of another one in Feriköy.
Note that the name means the ‘Circle of the Orient’. These people were the elites of the Orient. The official language of the club was French till 1930.
The photo of Cercle D’orient in 1940s
The name of the Club changed its name and then finally its location in 1950 to Çiftehavuzlar in Kadıköy. But this majestic building remained with changing functions.
Cercle D’orient Building was a neighbour to a cinema hall named Melek built in 1924 which became the cultural icon of Beyoğlu for cinema lovers for decades.
Melek Cinema was built in 1924
The original name of the Cinema Hall was Melek which literally means angel
The Melek Cinema Hall changed names and became Emek within time.
The tragic fate struck Emek Cinema Hall when it was demolished on May, 2013 as a part of the restoration project of Cercle D’orient in spite of all the protests of İstanbulites, Turkish intellectuals and art lovers . You can see the crowds trying to resist the authorities obsessed with erasing a landmark of history.
A last glimpse at Emek Cinema Hall
The only thing that remains today is the Cercle D’orient building. but Emek Cinema Hall was completely erased and replaced by a new shopping mall and the historical cinema hall was ‘elevated’ to the fifth floor of the newly built shopping mall as a parody of its former self. When you visit Beyoğlu, all you can see is this beautiful 19th century building that reminds us what it was but a few steps into the building will tell you how neighbouring Emek Cinema Hall was brutally destroyed for more profit by people who lack taste and a sense of heritage!
This is another story of oblivion in İstanbul and unfortunately won’t be the last.
It is at least a relief that Cercle D’orient building survived and is serving new functions for İstanbulites such as events, balls, receptions and weddings.
