This article carries the echoes of the famous book ‘Strolling through Istanbul’ by John Freely. Being the ‘flaneur’ I am, I love strolling through the streets of old Istanbul where I am bombarded with sounds, images and people from all walks of life. Istanbul is an extremely eclectic city where past coexists with the present, the traditional with the modern, oriental with the western. The city offers an experience of amazement for even a local every time one visits especially old neighbourhoods.
One of my favourite parts of old İstanbul is Galata which is a neighbourhood around the Galata tower. This district was formed due to the influx of Latins in the 14th century to the surprise of Byzantines who were residing within the walls of Constantinopolis (which is currently the district of Fatih). The Latins were from Italy coming from cities like Venice and Genova. That is why current Galata feels like little Italy with its cobble stone streets, architecture and churches. The culture of Latins was very different to that of the Byzantines at the time. Latins spoke Italian and prayed in Latin unlike the Byzantines who spoke and prayed in Greek, Latins were Catholics unlike Byzantines who were Orthodox Christians. They simply did not like one another. We know from history that Latins sided with Ottomans in the defeat of Constantinople.
One street in Galata especially feels like the little Italy and that is Serdar-ı Ekrem with its small antique shops, boutiques, hand made artefact stores, jewellery shops, cafes, art dealers and tiny restaurants. When you are walking down it, raise your head to see one of the most beautiful apartments with a European feel in Istanbul. One of my most favourite is ‘Doğan Apartmanı’. The apartment takes its name ‘Doğan’ from the son of a leading Turkish business man who lost his son in a ski accident in Switzerland. It has a beautiful courtyard which non-residents are not allowed to enter. It is a home to one of the most leading artists and anchorman in Turkey.
Along your way, drop by the eccentric antique shops that seem to harbour it all: furniture, china, dolls, costumes from a long forgotten past which most probably belonged to the residents of old İstanbul: Levantines, Greeks, Armenians.
Then don’t forget to stop for a sip of coffee or tea in one of the boutique cafes that will make you feel in Europe rather than in İstanbul. Or you might consider going up to the rooftop of George Hotel which has a fascinating view. The owner is a half French, half Turkish man who always says that he is fascinated with İstanbul.
View of the Old Town from the Georges Hotel Rooftop
The end of the road will take a sudden turn to the right where you will the see the hidden gem of the Crimea Memorial Church which was built in the name of the British soldiers who lost their lives fighting along side the Ottoman Army in the Crimean War fought agains the Russians in the 19th century . Note that famous nurse Florence Nightingale had come to İstanbul to help the British soldiers who were wounded in this devastating war.
This street is a living reminder of the ‘Latin’ past of the city who were one of the earliest inhabitants of Istanbul as well as traitors of Byzantine Constantinople.
